Hanoi

Having completed our exploration of the central coast we arrived at Hanoi, the scenic, buzzing, cramped, charming, capitol of Vietnam. Although Saigon is the country's largest city (there are as many motorcycles in Saigon - 7 million - as people in Hanoi), Hanoi certainly feels the most densely populated; perhaps due to its backpacker central being located in the Old Quarter - a heaping pile of shops, guesthouses, travel agencies, restaurants, and street food stalls that cater to tourists and locals alike served by a vascular network of winding streets and alleys that is constantly clogged by the plaque of motorcycles and other vehicles fighting with pedestrians to squeeze through the narrow passageways.

There is a clear distinction between Northern and Southern Vietnam, one that creates culinary, philosophical, cultural, and even violent tension. The best way we can think of for describing the split is to compare (and contrast) Saigon and Hanoi - the two metropolises that serve as the economic, cultural, and demographic hubs for their respective geographical sectors. While Saigon feels open, metropolitan and, at times, affluent, Hanoi is shrouded in a cloistered martiality held together by the scowls of uniformed military and police officials on many street corners. The well-maintained old Colonial French architecture of apartments, shops, and hotels lend a manicured charm to the wide boulevards in Saigon, while the slowly deteriorating facades of many buildings in Hanoi tinge the city with a patina that is equal parts poverty and a disinterest in cosmetic appearances. It is telling that the most well kept part of the city is probably the Ho Chi Minh Masoleum Complex. However, despite its stark appearance, Hanoi is certainly abuzz with activity, be it the steady stream of traffic, the sounds of haggling from the stalls of its 10+ block-wide night market, or the friendly chatter and laughter of locals and travelers hanging out in one of the many bia hoi (draft beer) sidewalk dispensaries all across the Old Quarter.

One of the Many Street Corners Occupied By Armed Military Guards

Hiding From the Sun While Walking Through the Old Quarter

We Did Say the City Is Alive, Didn't We?

We spent one day in Hanoi getting our sea legs after a night in a sleeper bus and a day touring around Tam Coc, and then a second day walking around the city to hit the touristic highlights. We started by taking a circuitous route from the Old Quarter to the Ho Chi Minh ~~Irony~~ Masoleum Complex to visit the Leninesque final resting place of the Vietnamese-Communist-leader-turned-deity. It's hilariously bizzare that a man who galvanized the country to fight for a cause that places the state above personal importance and riches is now enshrined in a multi-acre estate that is the most opulent site we saw in the entire city. Ho Chi Minh's body lays preserved in a glass case and if you told us that it was a wax replica instead of the real thing, we would not be surprised. The throng of guards patrolling the building would not let us violate the sanctity of the burial hall by taking pictures, so we had to settle for shots of the building from the outside and of some of the other sights in the complex.

The Long Line Waiting to Enter the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

A Battalion of Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Guards Leaving Their Post At Closing Time

From HCM's final resting place (save for the month or two he spends in Russia for upkeep), we ventured along to some other tourist sights, including the Temple of Literature - an ancient university compound, and wrapped up the day by catching a water-puppet theater show. The show was just short and novel enough to remain an interesting cultural experience worth attending rather than one that you go to strictly out of the guilty uncultured sensation that foregoing it may stir up.

A Floral Book Display At the Temple of Literature

Water Puppet Show

Street Food Update:

Our favorite eating spot in Hanoi was a multi-tiered, heavily patroned, local joint that served bowls of glutinous rice with a myriad of toppings. Here is a shot of the rice with peanuts (which looked and tasted like mashed potatoes), fried onions, and a hard-boiled egg. On the side is a spicy/sweet pickled cucumber salad.